Hierve el Agua is a great and easy day trip to take from Oaxaca City. The site consists of two rock formations that look like cascading waterfalls, the smaller having two pools for swimming on top. The formations are the result of calcium deposits built up over thousands of years from fresh water springs. Hierve el Agua translates as ‘the water boils’ in Spanish, but the water in the pools is actually cool, even a bit chilly!
Is it worth doing a tour to Hierve el Agua?
You have a few options for how to get to Hierve el Agua. The easiest is to do a tour from Oaxaca City. Most of the hostels will be able to organise this for you. If not, there are plenty of tour and travel agencies in the main part of town. If you are short on time, you could book this tour online that does a few of the main sites around Oaxaca in one day.
I generally try to avoid tours when I can. Sometimes to save money, but usually just for the adventure that comes with figuring it out on your own. I think getting to Hierve el Agua using public transport is the perfect mix of fun and challenge. Going independently means you will get to have as much time as you like at the pools, do the hike and can get there before the crowds.
If you’ve got the time and the inclination, here is a detailed breakdown of how to do it, how much it will cost, and tips to make sure its a stress free and fun day.
Getting to Hierve el Agua from Oaxaca City
The trip from Oaxaca City to Hierve el Agua involves a bus or a collectivo to Mitla. From there you will take a camioneta (truck/taxi) up the mountain to Hierve el Agua.
Oaxaca to Mitla
Assuming you’re staying in the tourist part of Oaxaca, you need to walk up to the baseball stadium Estadio Eduardo Vasconceles. The local bus to Mitla will stop just before the McDonalds on Highway 190, on the far end of the stadium. We were told it leaves every half an hour but I’m not sure how accurate that is. We only waited a few minutes and a collectivo pulled up offering us a lift to Mitla for 50 pesos. It was a hot day, so we almost took it. But just as we were discussing it the bus pulled up. The bus is 20 pesos. You pay the driver as you get on so make sure you have some small change ready to go.
Mitla to Hierve el Agua
After about an hour, both the collectivo and the bus will drop you off where the camionetas leave to Hierve el Agua. Where the bus dropped us off, we had to walk about 50m up the road. You’re looking for this sign or one of these utes with seats in the back.
I’ve heard stories of people having to wait for a while until the camioneta is full to leave. Ours filled up quickly with people from our bus. They are known to not leave until there are ten passengers – ours had thirteen, so that was fun!
For the camioneta, you pay 75 pesos before you board. About a kilometre or so up the bumpy road, we stopped again to pay someone else another 15 pesos. When we bought the tickets, the girl told us about this but my spanish extends to understanding we would have to pay it, but not to why we had to pay. Maybe it was a road toll, or maybe it was something dodgy. I’m not sure but nevertheless, another 15 pesos each.
The drive up has some beautiful views, but is not the most comfortable of rides. Particularly if you’re packed in like sardines as we were. You’ll all be friends by the end!
After about 45 minutes, the camioneta will arrive at the entrance. We had someone come to our truck to collect entrance fees but if that doesn’t happen, you can get out and pay as you go in. The entrance costs another 50 pesos.
Things to do at Hierve el Agua
When you arrive there are lots of shops and stalls set up selling food, drinks and souvenirs. If you follow the path down the hill you will see the pools. The views are incredible.
There are a few options of things to do. There is a loop hike which takes about 1.5 hours and gives you the opportunity to see the waterfalls and valley from different angles. People really rave about this hike so I would recommend checking it out if you can. We personally didn’t do the full hike as it was so hot the day we visited.
If you’re lazy like us, you can do the start of the hike which takes you along the ridge where you get still get some amazing views and then turn around before it starts to go downhill. We instead spent our time relaxing in the beautiful pools and taking in the views.
Things to bring to Hierve el Agua
It’s really important to bring appropriate sun protection with you because there is a no sunscreen allowed at Hierve el Agua. This is to protect the pools. If you intend to do the hike after swimming, bring sunscreen along and apply it after your swim. It’s therefore important to bring a hat, sunglasses and something to cover up as the sun is hot. We tried our best to not get burnt but failed.
There are shops to buy food and drinks, but they are a bit more expensive. Remember to bring cash. Consider bringing your own water and snacks if you’re on a tight budget.
Getting back to Oaxaca
To return to Oaxaca, you will need to wait for a camioneta to fill up to make the return trip to town. If it is taking a while and you don’t want to wait, you can offer the driver more per person to take back a smaller group. We were able to leave with 6 passengers for 100 pesos each.
The camioneta will drop you back at the same place, then you just need to cross the road and look for the bus station. There is an area inside where you can wait for the bus back to Oaxaca in the shade. The bus costs 20 pesos.
Total costs for a day trip to Hierve el Agua
To get to Hierve el Agua independently you will need 20 pesos each way for the bus, 75 each way for the camioneta, an extra 15 pesos for the road toll (?) and 50 pesos entry. A grand total of 255 pesos in cash, preferably small notes. These prices are correct as of July 2023.
Where to stay in Oaxaca
Location is really important when looking for accommodation in Oaxaca. The first time I visited I stayed in a cheap hostel near the bus station. The hostel itself was great, but I didn’t fall in love with the city.
The next time I stayed in the historic center and I finally understood what all the fuss is about. Oaxaca is such an alive, colourful and charming place to visit. Here are my top picks to make sure you get the most out of your stay!
Best budget accommodation options in Oaxaca
Casa los Arcos Oaxaca is more of a homestay style hostel. It is conveniently located in the charming historic center but on a street quiet enough to get a good sleep. It has some of the comforts of a hostel such as a shared kitchen and free drinking water while still maintaining that homey feel.
Viajero Hostel Oaxaca is the place to be for those looking for a more social hostel experience. Viajero is a chain of hostels through Central and South America and has all one needs to have a good time and make some travel companions. There is a tour desk, rooftop bar and restaurant – what more could you ask for!
Best mid-range accommodation option in Oaxaca
Hostal Central Oaxaca is perfect for couples. We stayed here on our second time in Oaxaca and found it the perfect mix of hostel and hotel. We were able to take part in some fun activities such as the cooking class, but had the added luxuries of a great included breakfast and a quiet room away from the party crowds of other hostels.
Best luxury accommodation option in Oaxaca
Grana B&B Oaxaca is perfect for a splurge. While still affordable compared to other luxury properties in town, it has some of the consistently best reviews I’ve ever seen on a hotel. Definitely worth checking out if you want to splash a bit of cash and treat yourself to some style in Oaxaca!
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