The Ultimate Pamir Highway Road Trip: Osh to Dushanbe

A day-by-day guide to a Pamir Highway road trip adventure!

The Pamir Highway is the world’s second highest highway in the world. There are a few different Pamir Highway routes that run through Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Afghanistan.

We took the Pamir Highway route that starts in Osh in Kyrgyzstan and ends in Dushanbe, Tajikistan passing through the Wakhan valley along the way.

How to book a Pamir Highway trip

You have a few options for travelling along the Pamir Highway, depending on your style. It is a popular route to cycle, hitch-hike and road trip. No matter which option you choose, you need to have a healthy sense of adventure as travelling the Pamir Highway has its challenges.

If you’re looking to book a 4×4 and driver and head off to explore the Pamir Highway, read my guide for how to plan a Pamir Highway tour.

We opted for a 9 day Pamir Highway trip starting in Osh, Kyrgyzstan and finishing in Dushanbe, Tajikistan.

Pamir Highway: Day one

On the first day of our Pamir Highway trip, we were picked up from our hotel at 8:30am. I was travelling with my boyfriend, and we met the two other members of our group as we picked them up.

Our driver took us to the supermarket to pick up some snacks for the journey. We also went to the ATM to withdraw enough USD for the trip. It would be better to do this the day before the tour starts but we weren’t sure how much cash we needed and ended up not having enough. It is recommended to bring $30USD per day per person in cash. Some ATMs in Osh will dispense both local currency and USD, but not all.

Once we were on the road, we drove to Sary Tash and then on to Sary Mogul, stopping at a few view points along the way. We spent two weeks driving around Kyrgyzstan before doing the Pamir Highway and I’m convinced every inch of the country is stunningly beautiful. The drive to Sary Tash is through rolling rainbow hills with incredible views at every turn.

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We continued driving until we reached the yurt camp at Tulparkol lake. It is a popular camp with lots of yurts around and other Pamir Highway tour groups.

Lenin Peak Base Camp Hike

Many groups choose to spend the night here because it is the start of the walk to Lenin Peak base camp. We arrived a little late to do the entire hike but we did the first section.

To start the hike, you have to cross the river and walk up the hill on the other side. The river was flowing really strongly when we were there and you had to take off your shoes and jump across some rocks to get to the start of the bridge.

The hike is not too difficult aside from the altitude. There is an elevation gain of 600m from 3500 to 4100m so if you haven’t properly adjusted to the altitude, you might find it challenging.

Accommodation

We spent the night in a yurt, which was really comfortable and warm. The location is stunning, in a valley with a view to Peak Lenin. There were flushable toilets and cold-water showers. The yurt was heated overnight by a small indoor fire burning dried cow manure (don’t worry, it doesn’t smell).

The accommodation cost 2000 Kyrgyz som per person including dinner and breakfast. Dinner was a vegetable soup with potato manti.

If you have a Kyrgyz SIM you can pick up some phone reception on the way out of Osh and then again around Sary Mogul. There is no signal at the yurt camp.

Pamir Highway Road Trip: Day Two

On day two of our Pamir Highway trip, we woke up to a clear sky and perfect views of Lenin Peak. After taking some photos, we had a nice breakfast with porridge, different types of bread, jam and biscuits. I found the food in Kyrgyzstan to be better than the rest of the trip.

Crossing the border into Tajikistan

It is about 2 hours drive from the yurt camp to the first checkpoint for the border. International borders can be confusing, but one of the best things about being with a driver is that they take care of this part for you. Once you are stamped out of Kyrgyzstan, it is about 20 minutes drive to Kyzyl Art Pass.

Kyzyl Art Pass is a high mountain pass, 4282m above sea level. It is located in no-man’s-land between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. It has to be one of the most uniquely beautiful border crossings in the world.

At the top of the mountain, we prepared to say goodbye to our Kyrgyz driver and meet our Tajik driver. We took some photos, changed into our new car and drove along the Chinese border fence to Karakol.

We stopped in Karakol and walked around the lake and the town. There is a cute little mosque and a few interesting buildings around the town. Mostly it just felt very deserted and forgotten.

There were a lot of mosquitos around the lake so bring insect repellent.

There are a couple of small homestays in Karakol and one hotel that looked quite fancy and out of place. We had originally planned to spend the night in Karakol but had plenty of time so pushed on a bit further.

We drove on another 1 hour and 40 minutes until we reached Murgab. This road is barren and moon-like and includes the highest road pass of the Pamir Highway at 4655m.

Murgab is a larger town that is a bit more interesting to walk around. There is a small bazaar made from a bunch of shipping containers that is interesting to look around. We had some cheeky local kids come and ask us for chocolate and cigarettes. We didn’t have either.

You can exchange money in town at the bank which closes at 4pm. To get a Tajik SIM card visit the Megaphone store in the corner of the bazaar. You need to show your passport.

Accommodation

We stayed at ADYL Guesthouse on the edge of town. It was clean and comfortable and run by a lovely family. There were hot showers and a nice place to sit and have a cup of tea. For dinner we had a vegetable and dumpling soup, cucumber salad and plov. The price was $20USD or 300 somoni for accommodation with dinner and breakfast.

Pamir Highway Tour: Day Three

After our breakfast of porridge, bread and tea, we headed to the bank to exchange some money. There is an ATM at the bank, but it didn’t work when we were there. We were able to exchange a maximum of $200 for our entire group at the bank. We had to go to another bank to exchange more than that.

The drive from Murgab to Alichur village is super beautiful. There are big rocky outcrops, meadows filled with grazing goats. The scenery is like nothing else.

We had lunch in Alichur and a walk around the town. We visited the beautiful Bulunkul lake, past the stunning Harmush pass at 4200m and then headed to the trail head for the Panorama Viewpoint Hike.

Panorama viewpoint hike

The Panorama viewpoint hike is a short hike along the Pamir Highway that offers incredible views over the nearby mountains. The hike has an elevation gain of 600m from 4200 to 4800m above sea level.

I have read many blogs about people really enjoying this hike but if I’m being honest, it was not my favourite. I’m not sure if we lost the trail or if the trail has had a few rockfalls that have made it slippery and difficult. We ended up just forging our own path up over the mountain but there were a few situations where it was very gravelly and slippery and didn’t feel very safe.

The views were stunning though and we did see lots of very cute marmots along the way.

After the hike we drove a few minutes down the road to the GBAO checkpoint. From there we headed towards the Wakhan Valley.

This part of the Pamir Highway is so beautiful. The Wakhan corridor is to your left and Afghanistan is just over the river. The road is a little harrowing with tight turns and steep drops to the gorge below.

Along this road is a river crossing famous among those travelling along the Pamir Highway. Depending on the weather and the time of year, it can be pretty scary to cross. It is recommended that you cross it in the morning as there is more water in the afternoon. Our driver crossed it in the dark and it was pretty crazy. We all thought we were about to be swept away down the side of the mountain in the dark.

Accommodation

We stayed at a big homestay in Zong village. It had a shop and was more like a hostel than a homestay. The owner was very friendly and spoke English well. There were lots of other Pamir Highway groups staying there, including a lot of cyclists.

For dinner we had a lentil and vegetable soup, with chicken drumsticks and a mixed vegetable dish. The price was 275 somoni including dinner and breakfast.

Pamir Highway: Day Four

For breakfast we had porridge and bread, again. And then drove to the start of the Engel’s Peak Meadows trek.

Engel’s Peak Meadows Hike

The Engel’s Peak Meadows hike is one of the most beautiful hikes along the Pamir Highway. It is a moderate hike that goes from an altitude of 3200 to 4000m. Most of the hike is uphill and then downhill on the way back.

There are views over the Panj river below and all the way to the Hindu-Kush mountains in Afghanistan. For more information, read my guide to the Engel’s Peak Meadows hike.

Accommodation

After the hike, we decided to stay at the same accommodation because we were so exhausted. We had plov and chicken drumsticks for dinner. We also treated ourselves to a few beers from the store downstairs for 25 somoni each.

Pamir Highway: Day Five

For breakfast we had porridge and omelette with bread and then packed up to leave our Zong homestay. This was one of my favourite days along the Pamir Highway as it was jam-packed.

Buddhist Temple ruins

We went to see the ruins of a Buddhist temple on the hillside near Vrang. The temple dates back to the 5th century and is definitely worth stopping to check out. It is about a 1km walk to the temple from where you park. I attempted this in sandles and it was a mistake. Put decent shoes on as it is quite a steep climb.

Yamg Stone Calendar

The Muboraki Wakhani museum is an interesting stop along the Pamir Highway. Muboraki Wakhani was a scientist and philosopher from small town of Yamg in the 19th century. He created a stone calendar that still exists at the museum today.

Today the most interesting part of this museum is the insight into Pamiri life. Set in a traditional wooden Pamiri home with exhibits of traditional tools and musical instruments. A lovely local man shows you around the museum and will even play a song or two on one of the instruments if you ask nicely.

Bibi Fatima Hot Springs

Bibi Fatima Hot Spring was such an unexpected highlight of the Pamir Highway. The springs are strikingly beautiful and like getting into a warm bath. There are stalagmites from the ceiling and you can hear the thundering waterfall nearby. It really is such a special experience and you can see why it is a popular pilgrimage site for Muslims.

Entry is 20 somoni per person. You cannot wear clothes or swimwear in the spring. Entry is therefore gender segregated.

Yamchun Fortress

Yamchun Fortress is a 12th century fortress nearby Bibi Fatima hot springs. Amazingly, a lot of this ancient fortress is still standing in its original state. Not only is the fortress impressive, from the top you can see for miles. You can understand why this would have been such an important fortress in its time.

Kah-Kakha Fortress

The final stop for the day was Kak-Kakha Fortress, sometimes called Ishkashim Fortress. While not as intact as Yamchun Fortress, Ishkashim Fortress is interesting because of its views across the Panj River into Afghanistan. There are also abandoned Soviet army equipment around the fortress like camp kitchens and other cookware.

We stood at the top of the fortress and waved to Afghan farmers across the river. For me, it was one of the coolest moments of our Pamir Highway trip.

Accommodation

We stayed in Ishkashim for the night to be ready for the Afghan market the following day. Ishkashim is a larger town with a few banks and even an ATM.

For dinner we had chicken and chips with a vegetable soup at a local restaurant for 55 somoni. The accommodation cost 200 somoni per person, including breakfast.

Pamir Highway Road Trip: Day Six

Day six of porridge for breakfast and it was getting pretty difficult to swallow. Luckily we were all so excited to get to the Afghan market that we didn’t really care about breakfast.

Afghan Market at Ishkashim

Visiting the Afghan market at Ishkashim is one of the highlights of the Pamir Highway. It is one of the main reasons that people opt for this Pamir Highway route that passes through the Wakhan Valley, rather then the original M-41 route to the north.

The Afghan market takes place on an island in the middle of the Panj River. The river is the natural border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan so the island is considered no-man’s-land. On Saturdays, people cross from Afghanistan to sell all kinds of things at this lively market.

The market is only on Saturdays so if you can plan your Pamir Highway trip to be in Ishkashim on Saturday, absolutely do it! The market was such a cool experience and one of the most interesting cultural experiences of the Pamir Highway.

After the market, there is a 110km drive to the town of Khorog. The drive is very scenic along the edge of the mountain, overlooking the river. It passess through cute Tajik villages and at times gets very close to Afghanistan on the other side of the river.

Khorog is one of the largest towns along the Pamir Highway. It has traffic lights, ATMs and a decent supermarket. Most ATMs only accept Visa, not Mastercard.

Accommodation

We stayed at our driver’s house on the sixth night of our Pamir Highway trip. A lot of drivers also have homestays along the way.

We went to a nearby restaurant for dinner and made friends with a drunk local guy who kept inviting us back to his house to see his pet eagle. We decided to skip that one.

Accommodation was $20 with breakfast.

Pamir Highway: Day Seven

For breakfast we were pleasantly surprised to have eggs and hotdogs with our porridge. We packed up and got on the road early so we could make it to the trailhead of the Jizeu Valley hike before it was too hot. It is about a 2 hour drive from Khorog, passing lots of Afghan villages across the river.

Jizeu Valley Village Hike

The Jizeu Valley hike was my favourite of our 9 days on the Pamir Highway. The hike is varied and not difficult. It can be completed as a return hike, but we opted to stay in one of the villages overnight and return the following day. Staying in one of these tiny communities and seeing their way of life was humbling. The owners of our guesthouse were lovely and made us feel at home in their beautiful little part of the world.

For more information read my Guide to the Jizeu Valley Hike.

Accommodation

We stayed at Guesthouse Lola in the first village on the hike. The dinner was a delicious vegetable soup and fresh homemade bread. We slept in a traditional Pamiri wooden house with comfortable sleeping mats and warm blankets.

Accommodation cost $15USD including dinner and breakfast.

Pamir Highway Tour: Day Eight

We woke up early to watch the sunrise over the nearby lake. The reflections of the mountains in the lake as the sun rose were spectacular. For breakfast we enjoyed some bread with lovely homemade jam.

The return hike to the bridge takes about 2 hours. We organised for our driver to meet us there and then drove on to Rushan village.

The Pamir Highway is remote, unforgiving and is known to throw travellers a few surprises. Luckily for us, the worst that we got a 7 hour delay because of a road closure. It could have been a lot worse, but it was also a long, hot, dusty wait that we weren’t prepared for.

The road to Kalaikhum is pretty crazy. It is narrow and tightly hugs the side of the mountain as it curves around the river. It is pretty scary when you come head to head with a truck and need to pass on what feels like it should be a one lane road.

They’re in the process of widening the road which is what caused our delay. It is a huge job so I don’t think it will be completed any time soon.

Accommodation

We spent the night at Hotel Zing in Kalaikhum, run by the family of one of the Visit Alay drivers. It was comfortable with nice grounds and right along the river. They also had great warm showers which were a god send. We had bean and potato soup for dinner with a tomato and cucumber salad.

We paid 250 somoni for accommodation including dinner and breakfast.

Pamir Highway: Day Nine

The final day of our Pamir Highway trip was the first time that we didn’t get porridge for breakfast and we were all thrilled! Eggs and hotdog style sausages with bread and jam were very welcomed.

Today we had a long drive to get to Dushanbe. The drive follows the Panj River for a couple of hours before we said goodbye to Afghanistan and turn towards Dushanbe.

This part of the drive passes through rocky mountains and red dirt landscapes. It reminded my of the Northern Territory in Australia.

We stopped at Hulbuk Palace, a reconstruction of 11th century palace. The inside was closed when we visited but we had a very hot walk around the outside. The increase in temperature as the altitude decreased was pretty intense. Suddenly we were very aware that is was the peak of summer.

The final part of the drive is past Nurek Power Station, the highest hydro power station in the world. There is a nice view point to stop, take some photos and have a cold drink.

By late afternoon, we had arrived in Dushanbe, exhausted and ready to wash 9 days of dust out of our clothes.

The Pamir Highway is an incredible road trip filled with some of the most stunning scenery and fascinating culture of anywhere I’ve ever travelled. Reflecting on it now, it is a highlight of 3 months travelling in Central Asia. It is a challenging place to travel at times, but it is a bucket-list trip you will never forget!

Tips for travelling the Pamir Highway

Remember to bring plenty of snacks on your Pamir Highway trip. There are so many amazing things about travelling in this part of the world, but the food is not one of them. It is very repetitive, very meat-heavy and fatty. You’ll be grateful to have a few of your own snacks to add some variety.

Make sure you have enough cash in USD to last the entire journey. There are a couple of ATMs along the Pamir Highway route that we took, but most of them were either out of money or didn’t work.

A lot of the hikes along the Pamir Highway are high altitude hikes. You never know how altitude is going to affect you. Bringing along some altitude medication is a good idea.

Where to stay in Dushanbe

Budget – The best budget accommodation in Dushanbe is City Hostel. I didn’t actually stay here myself, but everyone else on our Pamir Highway tour did and said it was great. They helped organise a shared taxi for us to go to the border a few days after we finished our tour, so we spent a bit of time at the hostel waiting. It was super clean and the staff were really friendly.

Mid-range – We stayed at Hotel Delahvi after our Pamir Highway tour because we thought we would treat ourselves to a bit more comfort than a hostel. It’s a beautiful hotel with spacious rooms and white fluffy robes. The owner was so friendly and even gave us a free lift across town when our taxi didn’t arrive.

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